Greyhound

Faster than forty miles per hour, able to hunt small game by sight... it's a Greyhound. This breed probably first appeared in the Middle East hundreds of years ago and then traveled to Europe on Phoenician boats. Established in England by the 9th century, they appeared in America even before the Declaration of Independence.

The breed name may refer to the coat color or to the Greek people, who have adored these dogs for years. Greyhounds may be well known as racers, but also make loving, well-behaved, calm family pets. A miniature version, called the Italian Greyhound, is classified as a Toy dog.

Ideal Breed Characteristics:

• Size: Males 65 to 70 pounds, Females 60 to 65 pounds.
• Appearance: Lean, muscular body with effortless, very speedy motion.
• Coat and Color: Short, thick, smooth, firm coat. All colors and color combinations with or without markings permitted.
• Head: Wide skull with a long, narrow, powerful muzzle; dark, almond shaped eyes; small, thin, folded ears, reaching toward the rear of the body.
• Tail: Long, thin, tapered, slightly curved.

English Foxhound

Speedy and determined, the English Foxhound has participated in organized fox hunts since the practice began in the 13th century. A peppy mix of St. Hubert's Hound, Talbot Hound, several types of Terrier, Bulldog and Greyhound, this breed displays continuous energy. The dogs have been carefully bred since the mid- 19th century and continue to work in hunting packs today. Although they make excellent sporting dogs, English Foxhounds very rarely live as pets, since they demand constant activity, running space and the canine company of a pack.

Ideal Breed Characteristics:

• Size: Males 22 to 25 inches, Females 21 to 24 inches (at the withers).
• Appearance: Strong, muscular body with effortless, powerful motion.
• Coat and Color: Short, thick, hard, shiny coat. Black, tan, white or some combination of the three colors, or white color with brown, yellow or tan shadings.
• Head: Long, broad, rounded skull with a square, straight, wide muzzle; large, wide-set, hazel or brown eyes; low, long, wide, rounded ears.
• Tail: Long, high, tapered, slightly curved.

Take measures to prevent your dog from being lost or stolen

Unfortunately, dogs are often lost or stolen. There are a number of practical steps, however, that you can take to prevent loss. Choosing the most suitable method will depend on your personal needs, circumstances and preferences. Several steps are described below.

Make sure that yard enclosures are tall enough to prevent dogs and people from getting in and out. Any openings should lock on both sides. Holes or breaks in fences should not be large enough for body parts to fit through. Some dogs will pull on young hands or feet that protrude into their space.

Keep your dog on a leash in crowded or unfamiliar places. Teach your dog obedience commands such as heel and stay. The more control you have over the dog, the less likely it will stray or run away. Sterilizing your dog can also help prevent loss by eliminating the temptation to seek out potential mates.

Opportunistic thieves will often steal dogs (especially purebreds) for resale, often to laboratories or unethical pet owners. It is very difficult to recover stolen dogs, though different forms of identification will assist their return.

All dogs should wear tags that are well-secured to a collar. Metal tags often provide plenty of room for information. The most critical element is your phone number, including the area code. Many people also include an emergency veterinarian or shelter number for times when they are not home. There is some debate about whether to include the dog's name, since this information may be used to coax the dog into accompanying a thief. On the other hand, it can also help rescuers approach the dog. You may also consider excluding your name or address as a safety precaution. You may want to include the words "reward offered" without specifying an amount. This incentive often encourages people to contact you.

Unlike tags, which can fall off or be removed, tattoos are imprinted directly into the skin. Tattoos do not require anesthesia and should include the dog's registration number as well as your social security and/or phone numbers. They are placed inside the thigh (ear tattoos are ineffective since they can be cut off) and registered with the National Dog Registry. Tattoos can be placed on a puppy after five weeks, though it is best to wait until the dog is nearly full-grown so that the tattoo does not distort as the puppy grows. There are kits that enable you to do the tattoo yourself at home, though professional assistance is probably a better choice. A tattoo usually deters common thefts and will prevent your dog from ending up in a laboratory, since nearly every lab will refuse to purchase a tattooed animal. Some countries require tattoos on all purebred dogs. Be alert to the possibility that the tattoo will fade over time and need to be updated. Also, tattoos can be hidden by fur. Keep the tattoo exposed whenever possible.

An even more permanent option is the microchip. A tiny microchip (about the size of a grain of rice) is inserted under the skin between the shoulder blades. It can be read with a scanner, revealing a code number that matches information maintained in a data registry. The insertion process takes about two minutes and the chip becomes permanently embedded. To date, the insertion of chips have never led to medical complications. The technique should be performed by a professional in a sanitary situation. You can keep your registration current by paying annual fees and providing up-to-date information. The disadvantage of microchips is that no national standard exists, meaning that many scanners cannot read chips created by other companies, rendering them ineffective.

If your dog does disappear and you cannot find it within a few hours, report the loss to the police, your veterinarian and the local shelters. Alerting these organizations may help you find the dog faster and ensure that it is protected upon recovery. Posting flyers in the neighborhood may also help.

Losing a dog can be painful and even traumatic. Take steps early to prevent this unfortunate situation.

Dachshund

Breed History

Given the long working history of the breed, it is no surprise that records, stud books, breed clubs and competitions have existed since the 19th century. A wide variety of hunting, field and show clubs emerged. Importation to other countries occurred early, and Dachshunds were among the earliest registered breeds in the United States.

Although Dachshunds have a reputation for being small, they actually exist in two sizes and are larger than many people may realize. The standard variety weighs between 16 and 32 pounds and may descend from an even larger dog, since the badger quarry often weighed nearly 40 pounds. The smaller variety (under 12 pounds) probably hunted hare and other diminutive animals. The coat also exists in three varieties, smooth, longhaired and wirehaired. Each type varies in length and texture.

The dogs are very alert and protective, making them effective watchdogs. Adaptable, energetic and affectionate, Dachshunds of all varieties live extremely well as pets in homes of all sizes.

Ideal Breed Characteristics

• Size: Males and Females under 12 pounds for Miniature variety and 16 to 32 pounds for Standard variety.
• Appearance: Long, low, solid body with smooth, even motion.
• Coat and Color: Short, smooth, shiny for Smooth variety; tight, thick, wiry for Wirehaired variety; long, wavy, shiny for Longhaired variety. Red, cream, chocolate, tan, black or two color mixes with tan markings.
• Head: Gently rounded skull with a tapered muzzle; very dark, almond shaped eyes; high, rounded ears.
• Tail: Long and tapered.

Borzoi

Breed History

Tolstoy's epic story War and Peace describes the Borzoi on a wolf-hunt: These speedy, aristocratic Russian dogs tracked, captured and pinned wolves until the horsemen arrived. A likely mix of a shorthaired Middle Eastern dog and a long-haired, long-legged Russian Collie, this breed found favor with the czars, who often gave them as royal gifts.

The name derives from a Russian word meaning "fast." Unlike most dogs, who track primarily by smell, the Borzoi uses sight as a primary sense. These tall dogs, largely unchanged for 100 years, possess a reserved disposition and still love to chase.

Ideal Breed Characteristics

• Size: Males at least 28 inches, Females at least 26 inches in proportional balance (at the withers).
• Appearance: Lean, agile body with effortless, graceful motion.
• Coat and Color: Long, silky, straight, wavy or curry coat; shorter hair on the head, ears and front of the legs; feathering on the chest, tail and rear; curry frill on the neck. Any color or combination permitted.
• Head: Rounded skull with a long, narrow muzzle; dark, triangular eyes; small ears set far back on the head.
• Tail: Long, low, gentry curved.

Getting yourself a full-grown dog

There are many advantages to adopting or buying an adult dog rather than a puppy. Their full-grown size and appearance is already set, preventing big surprises when a little puppy grows into a hulking adult. You have a better opportunity to evaluate the dog's personality, which is less likely to change once puppyhood has passed. Older dogs have already experienced the puppy stages, which means less chewing and fewer accidental messes. They often bond more quickly to their owners and display a fierce loyalty. Many older dogs possess excellent health and temperaments, and may be retired breeding dogs that no longer sire or carry offspring.

Bringing an older dog into your home does not mean that it will automatically adapt to the new situation. Some dogs have come from homes with little training or even more serious problems, such as abuse. Most of these problems can be overcome, if handled effectively from the beginning. Adult dogs require training, but usually to a lesser extent than puppies. Some are well-trained, but a concentrated effort on your part to introduce the rules and routines of your house may be required.

Give the new dog time to explore its home and the people living there. It may be unfamiliar or even afraid of certain places or objects. Introduce these things slowly. New procedures, such as grooming routines, may be frightening and foreign to the dog. If you have to teach the dog how to have its teeth brushed, for example, gradual steps may alleviate the dog's fear. Whenever you try new techniques, keep the dog as calm as possible. Finish on a positive note and offer plenty of praise and rewards for good behavior.

Most adult dogs resist new experiences out of fear, rather than view them as challenges. Understand this mind-set and be patient with new tasks.

Older dogs may have to be housetrained, either completely or with a special focus on the routine in your home. Since older dogs have the physical ability to control their urination, they are less prone to accidents. By showing them the preferred, outdoor spot often (after meals, naps and play) and waiting with them, they will learn to use that area. Some owners find that a cue word, such as "go" or "now" helps the dog understand what you expect. Repeat it often while you wait for the dog to eliminate in the given spot. Praise them exuberantly for going outdoors. Reprimand them only if you catch them "in the act" indoors. Help them behave properly by allowing plenty of opportunity to go outside and indicate your pleasure at good behavior.

A new dog may begin marking your home when it arrives by urinating and leaving its scent. Assuming that the dog is healthy and without incontinence problems, it may be trying to establish the new home as its own. You can discourage this practice by placing objects that smell like you (dirty laundry works well) around the house for a few days. Other dogs urinate submissively to indicate their acceptance of you as the dominant dog. You can distinguish this kind of urination by the position of the dog— it will be lying down or on its back. To cope with this problem, praise the dog often to build its confidence and approach your dog from a less dominant position. Kneel down to pet it instead of hovering, and avoid patting the head from above. Speak in high-pitched, friendly tones.

Your adult dog may also require obedience training, especially if it did not learn proper behavior before. Old dogs can learn new tricks, and may be able to do so more quickly because they can pay attention for longer periods than puppies. Obedience classes are highly recommended. They are relatively inexpensive and teach both you and the dog good techniques. Classes also provide an opportunity to socialize your pet with other dogs and people.

Your dog may not have any experience with crate training, and you may want to begin teaching the process. Crates provide den-like places that belong exclusively to the dog. They help with housetraining and provide a safe place to keep your dog when its alone. Crates can be frightening at first and must be introduced slowly. You should become thoroughly familiar with crates and their uses before attempting the process. Crate training is the same for both adult dogs and puppies.

If your dog is not already neutered, have it done. While there are no added risks to the health or personality of the dog by delaying sterilization, females will not derive the potential health benefits, such as reduced risk of many female-related cancers, that come with early spaying. The process for both sexes is relatively painless and inexpensive. Many male dogs have diminished aggression and frustration due to unfulfilled hormonal drives as a result of being neutered. If you adopt a dog from a shelter, you may be required to sterilize the dog before taking it home.

Adopting an older dog can be extremely rewarding in terms of the loyalty and maturity that the adult dog displays. As long as you are willing to invest the time and effort to find the right dog and properly adjust it to your home, you will find that these animals make loving pets.

Bloodhound

Breed History

Bloodhounds possess such keen determination and sense of smell that they can pick up old trails and track them for miles. Courts of law commonly accept these trails as legal evidence. A Bloodhound's approach to a completed search reflects the breed's sociable personality-- it usually tries to befriend the animal it has been tracking.

The breed remains one of the oldest and purest, dating from 8th century Belgium, when St. Hubert maintained a pack that was later refined into the modern version. These dogs stand taller than most hounds and require frequent exercise, but their serious, intelligent personalities make them affectionate family pets.

Ideal Breed Characteristics

• Size: Males 25 to 27 inches, Females 23 to 25 inches (at the withers).
• Appearance: Powerful, large body with effortless, erect motion.
• Coat and Color: Short, tight coat with loose skin, especially on the neck and head. Black and tan, red and tan or light brown color; minimal white markings on the chest, feet and rear permitted.
• Head: Long, narrow skull with a long, square muzzle; diamond shaped, heavily lidded, yellow to deep hazel eyes; long, low, thin ears.
• Tail: Long, tapered, set high.

Black and Tan Coonhound

Breed History

Breeding preferences for the Black and Tan Coonhound have focused on the dog's coat color and skill at trapping raccoons. This emphasis explains the breed's name. Although a fairly recent addition to the list of pure-bred dogs, its ancestors (including the Talbot Hound) existed in the 11th century.

Methodical trackers, these hounds stubbornly keep their noses to the ground. Upon locating game, the dog will bark loudly to signal success. Although these dogs traditionally stalk smaller animals, they can also hunt big game, such as bear. Words like alert and eager describe their personalities, which adapt well to family life.

Ideal Breed Characteristics

• Size: Males 25 to 27 inches, Females 23 to 25 inches (at the withers).
• Appearance: Strong, balanced body with agile, smooth motion.
• Coat and Color: Short, thick, shiny coat. Deep black color with tan markings on the chest, legs, over the eyes, and sides of the muzzle; minimal white markings allowed, but discouraged.
• Head: Gently rounded skull with a long, rectangular muzzle; round, hazel to dark brown eyes; long, low, large ears.
• Tail: Long, gently curved.

Thinking of getting a guard dog?

Some people buy dogs primarily for protection. It is important to remember, however, that dogs are first and foremost pets and companions, not protectors and alarms.

While nearly every dog can help protect a home by simply barking at the sign of intruders, many people expect that large, aggressive dogs can actively aid this effort. This added security may exist in some cases, but usually only for people who seriously train and maintain their dogs. For nearly every other dog owner, however, the risks from owning large, aggressive dogs far outweigh the risks from attackers and burglars.

Large dogs that have been trained or encouraged to be attack dogs usually lack the necessary socialization to live safely in human homes. Well-trained guard dogs have been carefully prepared for their role and should not be considered companions. Someone has invested time, money and effort into making this process successful. In the absence of the original trainer, you will have to assume the dominant role. This challenge can be daunting and time-consuming. It can also be dangerous if you lack the necessary experience.

Remember that you will be held liable if the dog attacks an innocent person or child. Aside from feeling remorseful, you may be required to pay financial retribution or have the dog euthanized. In general, a dog should be viewed as only a minor supplement to your regular home security system.

Where to find your new dog? (Part 2 of 2)

You may be looking for a long distance breeder if none exists in your area. Although a kennel visit is much preferred, good dogs can be obtained from far away. If you know someone living near the breeder, ask them to visit for you and arm them with questions and guidelines regarding what to look for. Seek multiple references and ask those people hard questions. Work with a breeder who is willing to talk with you by phone and send you information by mail. You will need to discuss how the dog will travel to you (by air, usually) and how the arrangements will be made.

Be alert for breeders who give dogs away at the supermarket or advertise in the newspaper. Favor animal shelters over these choices. Seemingly reputable breeders who have very specific agendas should also be avoided. These people may breed for a single feature (big heads or large size for example), or physical concerns at the expense of temperament and health. Be wary of breeders who create overly aggressive guard dogs to "protect" your home. The animals are usually difficult to manage and require tremendous control.

When it comes to picking a breeder, the key point is to research and find a reputable, caring, experienced one and follow trusted professional advice. As knowledgeable dog people, good breeders possess vast knowledge and information that can help you choose and raise a puppy.

Rescue organizations take purebred dogs from shelters or homes and care for them while new homes are sought. Sometimes, these services are provided by a branch of a breed club or a veterinarian with a penchant for a specific breed. You will probably not be able to discover the answers to as many of your questions, but seek as much information as possible. Adoption fees are usually expected, but cost less than dogs purchased from breeders. Rescue organizations for mixed breeds also exist, though animals shelters remain more common places for finding these dogs.

Animals that are not adopted from the shelter are almost always euthanized. By taking one of these dogs, you can save a dog from this fate, but don't be lured into choosing a dog for the wrong reasons. You should still ask as many questions about the dog as possible. Some are strays or abandoned dogs, while others are victims of the owner's death, divorce or other reason that has no relation to the dog or its temperament. You should examine both the shelter and the individual dog for encouraging signs. Finding a clean environment and a friendly, healthy dog is a good start toward finding a compatible pet. Most shelter dogs exhibit some signs of fear, which is normal given their situation. Get to know the dog through increased contact and see if you can soothe its temporary nervousness. If the dog does not become accustomed to you, it may be a mismatch and you should consider other dogs. Consider also that nearly 25% of the dogs in a shelter are purebred. These places can be excellent sources of pedigreed dogs.

Pet stores tempt you with cute puppies in the window, but in virtually every case these dogs have been produced en masse by disreputable sources. These so called "puppy mills" care more about quantity than quality and the dogs may be unhealthy, unsocialized and prone to developing physical and emotional problems. Furthermore, supporting these organizations only promotes the poor living conditions in the puppy mills and pet overpopulation.